Marketing to Restaurants is an Art Fully Developed By Rick and Kristie Knoll

By Gail Wadsworth, CAFF Grants Coordinator

On September 17 at 6:30 p.m., a unique relationship was consummated at Prima Ristorante in Walnut Creek, when a special dinner was hosted featuring Tairw· produce from Knoll Farms in Brentwood.

Peter Chastain, executive chef and owner of Prima, makes a point of purchasing fresh, local produce and features the Knolls’ products in many of his creations. He is an advocate of sustainable agriculture and works hard to reflect that attitude in his menus. He said that he had wanted to create a dinner like this for several years and offer it to patrons. Prima is well known for its wine cellar and organic wines from Italy were paired with each course of the dinner. A description of the menu and accompanying wines was offered by the chef, who met all diners personally, and by the sommelier, JD Massler.

Chastian’s cooking style relies upon flawless execution with his preparations showcasing the quality and freshness of the components. He uses fresh, seasonal ingredients from artisan producers in northern California as a basis for his traditional Italian cuisine. The restaurant has received rave reviews since he began creating dishes that highlight fresh flavors without fussy treatment. “The taste has to be there,” Chastain said. “Everything you do must help the main ingredient stand out and emphasize its freshness.”

During the dinner, Rick Knoll told an amusing story about ‘Knollomint’ when asked how it got its name. He said that while Knoll Farms had been growing mint for a long time, his workers made fun of it as a weed and suggested he plant Yerba Buena instead. He did so, and began featuring it to clients. It was not a big seller, however, so he started calling it Knollomint and it began selling well.

This is just one example of the Knolls’ unique outlook to marketing their harvest. They have developed a farm-to-restaurant link that is a model for other farmers and restaurateurs. Their principal business comes from selling wholesale directly to local restaurants and bakeries. One of their best selling products is their rosemary. They estimate that they sell 325 pounds a week to Bay Area bakeries. Rick said that a friend of his claims he can tell when he buys bread with rosemary whether or not it’s from Knoll’s farm, simply by the taste.

In spring, the Knolls’ green garlic is a staple in many local restaurants, featured in soups, side dishes and meats. Last spring they shipped between 600 and 800 pounds a week to restaurants such as Chez Panisse, Universal Café, Slow Club, Sent Sovi and Crescent Park Grill. Their products are often listed by name on the menus of such discerning restaurants. Just as the Knolls led the acceptance of green garlic as a desirable ingredient in gourmet dishes, they have also begun harvesting and selling fava greens. As fava beans have grown in popularity, many farmers have taken advantage of the market. Kristie Knoll says Rick was out grazing one day, sampled some fava greens, and thought, “Whoa, this is pretty good.” The greens are tasty raw but most chefs wilt or blanch them.

An article in the San Francisco Chronicle reviewed them this way: “They’re a popular tapa at Cesar in Berkeley, flavored with onion and crisp bacon. At Caffe Venezia in Berkeley, they’re stir-fried, then tossed with fresh fava beans and lamb braising juices and served with lamb shanks. At Prima in Walnut Creek, a small salad of wilted fava greens and Blue Lake beans accompanies fresh fish. Farallon in San Francisco uses them raw and cooked as a fish garnish. At Firefly in San Francisco, they’re sliced and added to risotto at the last minute or stir-fried to accompany sturgeon.”

The Knolls also sell at the Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market and to a Walnut Creek CSA that was started by consumers in search of local food. Knoll figs are an especially popular item, as are their ‘vicious varietal’ artichokes. This past year, the Knolls developed their own label and are currently marketing all of their products under the name Tairwa. This is the first year the Knolls have decided not to renew their certification with CCOF. They have taken this step in favor of the label that better reflects the unique properties on their farm. Tairwa is a phonetic translation of the French word terroir, meaning ‘the essence of place.’ Familiar to wine drinkers, the term refers to the characteristics that grapes pick up from specific soil and climate. Rick and Kristie hope that their label will uniquely reflect the essence of their farm in flavor, quality and nutrition.

Because the Knolls have a strong market base, this change has not harmed them and may help them in the long run. They have made some unusual decisions in the past, but time has shown that in most cases they have been smart choices. Imagine, making money from fava greens!

To learn more about the Knolls and their unique perspective, visit their website at www.knollorganics.com. Prima Ristorante is located at 1522 North Main Street, Walnut Creek, and can be reached at 925-935-7780.